Saturday, August 1, 2009

lincoln ls, clockspring removal

clock spring air bag

Complete Clock Spring Replacement (PICS)






I took the time to get the entire process in pictures complete with exact
tools. First and foremost, make sure the battery is disconnected. Attach the
two battery cables together. It helps to drain any residual voltage in the car
and prevent any accidental connections with the battery terminals.




small flat head screwdriver

Phillips #2 screwdriver

Rachet with 7,8,13 mm sockets and a 3-4" extension

2 torx bit sockets T25 and T50

Differential Bearing Puller vvv These guys vvv





You are also going to need the proper socket to turn the bolt on the pullers.





Ok tools gathered, and battery voltage gone, lets start working.





1) Remove two plugs on steering wheel back cover. They might be a bit of a
pain, but a small flat head can do it, just be patient.









2) Using the 8mm socket, remove the two air bag retaining bolts from behind
the plugs. The air bag module should start to slide out on its own. You can
pull it off the steering wheel, but dont yank on it. There is still the air
bag connector which needs to be removed.







3) Slide the yellow tab towards back towards the wires and sqeeze the two
small black square tabs into the clip. I used both hands since they are so
small. When the clips are pushed together the connector can be pulled straight
back away from the module. Once off, you can go put the air bag somewhere
safe, remember to keep the Lincoln Star facing up







4) Remove the push pins from the bottom of the dash front, then pull of the
cover enough to disconnect the wires for the trunk release and fuel door.









5) Using the 7mm socket, remove the two screws holding the hood release in
place (i used a nut driver with the socket on it but the ratchet will work
perfectly)







6) Using the flat head screw driver (pliers would work well too) pry the two
push pins from the instrument insulator panel. Pull the panel most of the way
out, then remove the light by twisting counter clock wise.













7) Remove the 8mm screw holding the heater duct in place, then pull the heater
duct towards the drivers door and out.







8) This step is in the Ford instructions, but I dont know the reasoning. I did
it, but I think it doesnt make a difference either way. Just under the center
console speaker is two 13mm bolts. Loosen but dont remove them cause they
arent fun to line back up in the holes. You will need to pull the carpet back
to access these bolts.





9) Remove the 5 screws in the steering column opening reinforcement panel.
Four of them are 8mm, and the one just to left of the steering column is 7mm.







OK, we are moving along nicely. Before you get any further make sure your
front wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centered. This is
important and without it the clock spring may not line up correctly.



10) There is four T25 torx screws in the steering wheel holding the horn
actuator on. Remove those bolts, but be careful, there is a spring behind each
one. Dont lose them. Gently move the green circuit card down and out of the
way. You can unplug the wires if you want, but its not neeed and the plugs are
pretty small. The big white connector in the center of the circuit board does
need to be removed.







11) Remove the steering wheel by first using the T50 torx socket to remove the
center bolt. It may be easier to have someone hold the steering wheel while
you break it free, but I got it free myself so a helper isnt necessary. Then
install the fingers of the bearing puller on the top and bottom of the
steering wheel frame. The center bolt on the puller should line up and fit
right where torx bolt went. If it does, then tighten the bolt down until the
steering wheel pops free. If it doesnt, then thread the torx back in a few
turns and center the puller bolt on it. Its more of a pain since the torx bit
will spin with the puller bolt. I only have a picture of the pullers on the
torx bolt, but i took it out before cranking down on the puller bolt.







12) Remove the two screws in the bottom of the steering column with a #2
phillips screwdriver, and pull down on the bottom part of the column. There
are plastic clips inside there, but I just pulled and it came free.







By now you should have clear access to the clock spring and all the
connectors. Everything is done by hand from her out.



13) There are four clips holding the clock spring cylinder to the steering
wheel controls such as the wiper controls. First pull the two boxes straight
towards you and off the steering shaft. Then with your fingers (or a
screwdriver) pry the clips free so the clock spring comes free.









14) Remove all the connectors that go to/from the clock spring box (dont worry
about the wires on the cylinder)





cut the white wire tie in this picture to remove the long flat connector





15) Now you just have the four clips on the corners of the clock spring
holding it to the dash. Get the top two off and the bottom two will follow.





Ok, now the removal procedure is done. The new clock spring will have a
plastic key to keep it from rotating on you. Reverse the removal procedures
but wait until the clock spring cylinder is on the steering column before
pulling it off.